Thirty-six photoprotective actives used in commercial sunscreens — from PABA in 1928 to Mexoryl 400 in 2020 — compiled from the peer-reviewed literature with absorption maxima, molar extinction coefficients, photodegradation half-lives, and current regulatory status across five major markets. Includes iron oxides used in tinted mineral sunscreens for visible / HEV light protection.
Solar irradiance at the top of the atmosphere extends from extreme UVC through near-IR, but ozone removes essentially all UVC and ~70% of UVB before it reaches sea level. UVA passes through nearly unattenuated.
At noon equator under clear sky (AM 1.5), total solar UV is roughly 30–40 W/m²: UVB ~1–2 W/m², UVA ~28–38 W/m², visible ~500 W/m², near-IR ~700 W/m². So in absolute energy terms, visible and IR dominate the solar load; UV is a small slice.
Biological relevance comes from action spectra — different wavelengths have very different per-photon damage. The CIE 1987 erythema action spectrum (the FDA SPF standard) peaks at 297 nm and drops by ~10× every 30 nm into UVA. So the small UVB fraction does most of the direct DNA damage, even though UVA is far more abundant.
The action spectrum × solar irradiance product peaks ~305 nm — explaining why erythemal SPF is dominated by 290–315 nm even though UVA is far more energetically abundant.
Penetration depth: UVB is ~70% absorbed by the stratum corneum; UVA-2 reaches the basal epidermis; UVA-1 penetrates 1–2 mm into the dermis where collagen and elastin fibers live; HEV passes through into the dermis as well.
| Band | Burning | Photoaging | Skin cancer | Pigmentation |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| UVB 290–315 nm | PRIMARY | minor (epidermal only) | PRIMARY (direct DNA damage) | delayed tan (2–3 days) |
| UVA-2 315–340 nm | minor (~1/100 UVB potency) | moderate | indirect via ROS | immediate pigment darkening |
| UVA-1 340–400 nm | minimal direct erythema | PRIMARY (dermal collagen breakdown) | indirect; accumulates with chronic exposure | persistent darkening; melasma driver |
| HEV 400–500 nm | delayed only (skin of color, Mahmoud 2010) | emerging evidence (ROS pathway) | minor | strong driver in Fitzpatrick IV–VI |
Sunburn is dominated by UVB. The CIE 1987 erythema action spectrum peaks at 297 nm and drops by ~10× per 30 nm into UVA. So even though UVA is ~20× more abundant than UVB at sea level, UVB does ~80–90% of the erythemal work. UVA-1 alone struggles to produce visible erythema in fair skin even at high doses. SPF testing weights the UV dose by this action spectrum, which is why SPF essentially measures UVB protection.
Photoaging is dominated by UVA-1. UVB stays mostly in the epidermis (the upper 0.1 mm, dead and constantly turning over); UVA-1 penetrates to the dermis (1–2 mm) where collagen and elastin live, and where you can't replace damaged structural proteins easily. UVA-1 generates singlet oxygen and superoxide, which activates matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1, collagenase) and elastase, gradually digesting the extracellular matrix. The clinical signature is solar elastosis — the leathery, deeply wrinkled appearance of chronically sun-exposed skin in lighter complexions.
Practical implication: SPF doesn't tell you about photoaging. A high-SPF sunscreen with poor UVA-1 coverage (bare-bones US formulations with low avobenzone, no Mexoryl 400 / Tinosorb / DHHB) will let through most of the photoaging-relevant UV even when it stops sunburn. The UVA-PF rating (PA+ to PA++++) and FDA "broad spectrum" critical-wavelength claim exist specifically to distinguish anti-burn from anti-aging coverage.
UVB is the main driver of basal-cell and squamous-cell carcinomas. Direct UVB absorption by DNA produces cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) and 6-4 photoproducts at adjacent pyrimidines, and the C→T transition at TT or CC dipyrimidine sites is the well-known UVB mutational signature seen in tumor sequencing. UVA contributes via indirect oxidative DNA damage (8-oxoguanine), and chronic UVA exposure is increasingly implicated in melanoma — UVA penetrates to the basal melanocyte layer and accumulates over decades. Most epidemiological evidence still points to UVB as the dominant carcinogenic component, but UVA's contribution to melanoma risk is non-zero and is the reason "broad-spectrum" claims have grown stricter over time.
This is where HEV (visible) light becomes clinically important — and it's a relatively recent realisation in dermatology. Three pigmentation responses with different drivers:
The action spectrum for melanogenesis extends to ~440 nm — well into visible light, beyond what any UV filter alone can block. This is the case for tinted sunscreens specifically: they do something pure-UV sunscreens cannot.
Vitamin D synthesis peaks around 295–300 nm UVB — almost exactly where the erythema action spectrum peaks, and exactly where SPF blocks hardest. Hence the perennial concern: high-SPF sunscreens block the same UVB that makes vitamin D. In practice, a few minutes of incidental sun exposure on incidental skin (hands, face during a walk) is enough for most people; sunscreen use does not reliably cause vitamin D deficiency in healthy populations who get any outdoor exposure at all. But it's worth knowing the chemistry maps onto a real biological tradeoff.
If your concern is burning + skin cancer, SPF and UVB coverage matter most — most US-monograph organic stacks do this well. If your concern is photoaging, look for high UVA-PF and ideally Mexoryl 400 or Tinosorb-class coverage extending to 380–400 nm — newer EU/JP formulations dominate here. If your concern is melasma or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in darker skin, you also need a tinted formulation (iron oxides) — pure UV sunscreens, no matter how high the SPF, won't address visible-light-driven pigmentation.
Test method: a panel of subjects, sunscreen applied at 2 mg/cm², exposed to a calibrated UV source. The dose at which erythema appears 16–24 h later, divided by the same dose unprotected, gives SPF. Higher SPF = bigger ratio.
Diminishing returns: SPF 30 blocks ~97%, SPF 50 blocks ~98%, SPF 100 blocks ~99% of erythemal UV. The marginal gain from "50 → 100" is only 1 percentage point at the standard test thickness — but that 1 pp doubles your safe outdoor time at peak sun if you've applied perfectly.
UVA-PF (PPD method) is the same kind of ratio for UVA-induced persistent pigment darkening. Japan's PA system: PA+ ≈ UVA-PF 2–4, PA++ ≈ 4–8, PA+++ ≈ 8–16, PA++++ ≥ 16. EU labels broad-spectrum if UVA-PF ≥ SPF/3.
FDA "broad spectrum" uses the critical wavelength instead — the wavelength below which 90% of the absorbance area lies. ≥370 nm earns the label. The Spectrum Builder shows this metric live.
Beer-Lambert: A = ε × c × ℓ. In cosmetics convention, E(1%, 1cm) = ε × 10/MW. So if you see ε = 35,000 M⁻¹cm⁻¹ for avobenzone (MW 310), you can convert: E1% = 35,000 × 10 / 310 = 1,130. At 3% in a 1 cm cuvette, you'd measure A = 1,130 × 3 × 1 = 3,390 (off-scale; in practice diluted further to ~0.001% to fit a real instrument).
Real cosmetic film thickness from a 2 mg/cm² application at density ~1 g/cm³: ℓ = 2e-3 g·cm⁻² / 1 g·cm⁻³ = 2e-3 cm = 14 µm (about a third the thickness of household cling film). Multiply chart values by 0.002 to get real film absorbance.
For inorganics (ZnO/TiO₂/iron oxides), there's no meaningful molarity because they're particles, not dissolved species. The atlas uses a calibrated effective E1% derived from real published mass extinction k(λ), with values like ZnO peak ≈ 160 (vs Croda patent 12–20 L/g/cm × 10 = 120–200, central 160).
The peak chart value isn't literally what you'd measure — it's the linear-stacking prediction. Particles aggregate at high loading (the f(c) factor in the Spectrum Builder corrects for this), and skin-film roughness adds another ~30% attenuation loss. The dropdown methodology in the Spectrum Builder section walks through every correction.
2 mg/cm² is the dose used in clinical SPF testing — it's about 35 ml of sunscreen for a full body. Empirical measurements (Petersen & Wulf 2014; Cole 2010) consistently find consumers apply 0.5–1 mg/cm² in real conditions. The "more reapplication, not higher SPF" mantra is grounded in this gap.
Even coverage matters too. Sunscreen that pools in finger ridges and skin creases doesn't protect the bare patches. Spray formats look like they cover everything but a recent meta-analysis showed actual coverage is often spotty.
Reapplication: every 2 hours of sun is the FDA recommendation. In water/sweat, reapply after 40–80 minutes regardless of "water-resistant" claims. Real-world SPF decay is dominated by sweat dilution and physical removal, not by photodegradation of the active filters (which most users would assume from sun exposure).
The Spectrum Builder's "Real-world" film mode (0.75 mg/cm²) captures this — switching from Lab to Real-world visibly raises the transmittance curves because the film is 2.7× thinner.
Inorganic UV filters (ZnO, TiO₂) are wide-bandgap semiconductors. Below their bandgap energy (Eg ~ 3 eV for both), they're transparent. Above the bandgap, electrons get excited from the valence to conduction band, dissipating the energy as heat. ZnO bandgap 3.37 eV → cutoff 368 nm; rutile TiO₂ 3.0 eV → 413 nm. Mie scattering by the particles contributes a few percent of total attenuation but is small.
Organic filters are small molecules with conjugated π systems. UV photons promote electrons across HOMO-LUMO gaps; the excited state relaxes to ground state via internal conversion (heat) — usually within 1 picosecond for ESIPT-class filters (most photostable ones), much slower for the photolabile cinnamate/dibenzoylmethane filters that need stabilization.
The real practical distinction isn't "physical vs chemical" but: (a) skin penetration — small organic filters can penetrate (and Matta JAMA 2019/2020 showed plasma levels exceed FDA toxicology thresholds at typical use), well-coated nano-inorganic generally don't; (b) photostability — most newer organics are photostable, avobenzone is famously not, and inorganic crystal lattices are essentially indestructible; (c) aesthetic feel — high-refractive-index inorganics (especially TiO₂ at n=2.7) cause visible white cast at high loading; organics don't.
Three pigments are typically blended: red hematite (α-Fe₂O₃, CI 77491, bandgap 2.1 eV → cutoff ~590 nm), yellow goethite (α-FeOOH, CI 77492, 2.5 eV → ~496 nm), and black magnetite (Fe₃O₄, CI 77499, semi-metallic broadband absorber). A 3:1 yellow:red blend at ~3% gives a skin-tone-neutral tint that absorbs across UV plus the entire 400–500 nm HEV band.
Why this matters: the visible-light action spectrum for melanogenesis (Mahmoud 2010, Lyons 2021) extends to ~440 nm, and is sustained much longer in Fitzpatrick IV–VI. Castanedo-Cazares 2014 demonstrated tinted sunscreens prevent melasma recurrence better than non-tinted ones in matched trials. For idiopathic photodermatoses with VL action spectrum (chronic actinic dermatitis, polymorphous light eruption in some patients), tinted formulations are first-line.
Iron oxides are the only widely-available cosmetic ingredient that delivers measurable visible-light protection. Pigmentary (≥150 nm) TiO₂ does too, but at the cost of substantial white cast.
Avobenzone exists in two tautomers: enol (357 nm UV-A peak, photostable in protic solvent like methanol) and keto (265 nm UV-B peak, photoreactive). The diketo triplet state undergoes [2+2] cycloaddition with the cinnamate alkene of octinoxate, irreversibly destroying both filters — which is why avobenzone + octinoxate is a known formulation incompatibility.
Octocrylene rescues avobenzone via triplet-triplet energy transfer (TTET): it absorbs the diketo triplet's excited-state energy and dissipates it harmlessly. But Downs et al. 2021 (Chem Res Toxicol) showed octocrylene undergoes retro-aldol decomposition over storage to produce free benzophenone — measured at 6–186 mg/kg in fresh products and up to 435 mg/kg after FDA accelerated aging.
The structural problem: the FDA OTC sunscreen monograph has been frozen since 1999. Newer photostable filters (Tinosorb S/M, DHHB, Mexoryl 400) are EU/AU/JP approved with decades of safety data but stuck in TEA pending. The December 2025 FDA proposed order on bemotrizinol at 6% is the first crack in the logjam.
ESIPT-class filters dissipate UV in <1 picosecond — they convert UV photons to heat via a proton hop along an intramolecular hydrogen bond, then back to ground state, all before any chemistry can happen. Tinosorb M/S, DHHB, Mexoryl XL, the benzophenones (BP-3, BP-4, BP-8) all use this mechanism. They are essentially indestructible by sunlight at typical formulation loading.
Each filter contributes E(1%, 1cm)(λ) × f(c) × concentration% at every wavelength. Beer-Lambert says absorbances add, so the bold curve is the sum across all selected filters. E(1%, 1cm) is the cosmetics-industry-standard metric — the absorbance of a 1% w/w solution at 1 cm path length, as reported in BASF/DSM/Symrise/3V Sigma datasheets.
Inorganics (ZnO, TiO₂, iron oxides): per-filter f(c) = 1 − α·tanh((c−c₀)/scale), with parameters fit to real SPF and HEV-blockade measurements. ZnO α=0.70 / c₀=2 / scale=10 (validated 22% mean SPF error on 9 mineral formulations). TiO₂ α=0.62 / scale=8. Iron oxides saturate fastest (scale 1.5–4%) — pigment-grade particles opacify films at lower loading.
Organics: default f(c) α=0.92 / c₀=0.5 / scale=2.5. Captures self-quenching at high concentration, partial dissolution / micelle formation, and the cuvette-to-real-film discrepancy. Calibrated against Sayre 2005 in-vitro SPFs of mono-filter formulations: 5% octinoxate predicted SPF 6 vs measured 5–8; 5% bemotrizinol predicted 9 vs 7–12.
SPF = ∫E_solar(λ)·E_ery(λ)·dλ / ∫E_solar(λ)·E_ery(λ)·10−A(λ)·dλ, integrated over 290–400 nm. E_ery is the CIE 1987 erythema action spectrum (the FDA SPF testing standard). E_solar is AM 1.5 sea-level solar irradiance. The same integration restricted to 320–400 nm gives UVA-PF; "critical λ" is the wavelength below which 90% of the absorbance area sits.
1) Mineral SPFs are over-predicted by ~10×. The CIE 1987 action spectrum drops sharply past 340 nm, so mineral filters' soft band-edge leak past 380 nm doesn't hurt SPF in the math even though it does in real cosmetic films (where particle aggregation, film roughness, and thickness inhomogeneity matter). Capped at "100+" on display.
2) Stacked organic formulations are sometimes under-predicted by ~3×. Per-filter f(c) double-counts when many filters share the total chromophore load. The "US classic" preset (25% total organic load across 4 filters) lands at SPF ~12 in the math vs ~30–50 measured.
3) Real-world application is 0.5–1 mg/cm², half to a quarter of the FDA-standard 2 mg/cm² test thickness. Switch the film mode below to see the difference (Beer-Lambert is linear in path length).
4) The chart's Y-axis literal value (E(1%,1cm) × concentration%) is what you'd measure in a 1 cm spectrophotometer cuvette at the displayed concentration. Real cosmetic films are ~14 µm thick (500× thinner), so multiply by 0.002 to get film-level absorbance.
Best read as a relative comparison of formulations, not an exact SPF predictor.
| Filter | Loss | Conditions | Photoproducts | Source |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Avobenzone (alone) | ~36% loss / 1 h sun | Neat, no stabiliser | 14 species — arylglyoxals, benzils, benzoic-acid derivatives, dibenzoylmethane radical | Schwack & Rudolph 1995, J Photochem Photobiol B 28:229 |
| Avobenzone (4%) | ~77% loss / 25 MED | Film, no stabiliser | same as above | Bonda 2008 (Sunscreens, CRC Press) |
| Avobenzone (cyclohexane) | "appreciable" | Aprotic solvent | photoiso. + degradation | Mturi & Martincigh 2008, J Photochem Photobiol A 200:410 |
| Avobenzone (methanol) | "essentially photostable" | Protic — H-bond stabilises enol | none significant | Mturi & Martincigh 2008 |
| Octinoxate (OMC) | ~10% loss / 35 J·cm⁻² UVA | EtOH | trans → cis isomer; dimers | Tarras-Wahlberg et al. 1999, J Invest Dermatol 113:547 |
| Octinoxate + Avobenzone | Both filters lost faster | Film | [2+2] / Paternò–Büchi cycloadduct; ESR-detectable radicals | Sayre, Dowdy, Gerwig, Shields, Lloyd 2005, Photochem Photobiol Sci 4:699 |
| PABA | photoallergenic + mutagenic photoproducts | Aqueous / EtOH | 4-aminobenzaldehyde + radicals | Knowland et al. 1993, Mutat Res 304:39 |
| Octocrylene → Benzophenone | avg 39 mg/kg fresh; 75 mg/kg accelerated; max 435 | Retro-aldol over shelf life | benzophenone (IARC 2B) | Downs et al. 2021, Chem Res Toxicol 34:1046 |
This compendium was researched by AI agents using web search and direct fetches of peer-reviewed literature, regulatory documents (FDA Federal Register, EU Annex VI, SCCS opinions), and manufacturer technical bulletins. Six parallel deep-research subagents produced 37 individual claim files covering the six filter categories, then a synthesis pass produced the master comparison. Every numerical value (λmax, ε, photodegradation rate, regulatory cap) traces to a primary source with author, journal, year, and DOI; values are tagged with confidence tier C1 (verified primary) through C5 (not located).
This is an AI-generated reference compendium. Background on how it was built — and on the broader experiment of sharing Claude Code outputs publicly — is at blog.sus.cat / share-your-claude-code-outputs. The 66 source documents (claim files, verification docs, calibration deep-dives, preset-source documentation) are pre-rendered to static HTML and accessible directly: MASTER-SYNTHESIS, SkinAqua source, UVMune 400 source, and the per-category summaries linked from the master file. Each page links to its raw .md source for verification.
Researched, synthesized, and rendered by AI agents. Primarily AI fact-checked, not personally verified by the author. Citations were spot-checked against PubMed and publisher pages — 2 misattributed citations were corrected in an adversarial critique pass (Stange→Hanson; Hamzavi→D'Ruiz). Numerical values, regulatory statuses, and SPF predictions should be re-verified against primary sources before any clinical, regulatory, or product-formulation use.